Peñíscola, Costa del Azahar, Spain

While you are staying at Camping Vinarós it is well worth visiting the nearby seaside resort of Peñíscola, situated 17 km south of Vinarós. Its unique combination of history and two gorgeous sandy beaches make it a must-see for the discerning traveller.

The town of Peñíscola has grown up around the castle built on its peninsula between the years 1294 and 1307 AD by the Knights Templar. However, strongholds had existed on the site before that time during the period of Arab rule in the region between 711 and 1233 AD. During the fifteenth century, the castle became the home of Pope Benedict XIII known as Papa Luna, following the disagreements within the Catholic Church as to who was the rightful Pope. Later occupants fortified the castle walls further.

Peñíscola’s castle is the second most visited monument in Spain, after the Alhambra in Granada. It was also used as a location for the Hollywood blockbuster “El Cid” starring Charlton Heston.

For history buffs a tourist guide giving a detailed, beautifully illustrated account is available from bookstalls in the resort at a very reasonable price.

Here are some suggestions for spending a day visiting Peñíscola:

Note: In the high season you may want to arrive around 10 am so as to do your sightseeing before it gets too hot. In the low season check opening times as there may be a lunchtime and siesta closure. Don’t forget your camera, you will see some stunning views.

Travel directions from Vinarós to Peñíscola:

Take the signposted turning towards Peñíscola from the N340.
Simply stay on this road until you reach a large roundabout near the sea front. You will drive past a fair amount of new building work as the resort is anticipating a boom when the new airport at Castellon opens in 2006; don’t be put off! If you have a large vehicle the most suitable car park may be found towards the centre (el centro) of the resort, except when the weekly market is held there. (They will have information at Camping Vinarós about market days in the area.)

There are two approaches to the old walled city and castle, both clearly signposted from either the beach front promenade or the harbour. Wear good footwear as the steep cobbled streets are well worn and can be slippery. Access by vehicle is limited to residents, businesses etc. We managed fine on our last visit with two grandparents and our toddler in tow! Just keep climbing through the enchanting narrow streets towards the castle until the route opens out into an attractive square with an impressive church and a couple of cafés. You may be in need of liquid refreshment by this point! Continue on to the castle entrance and ticket office. (The price of adult admission in 2005 was 2€ 50, with child and senior citizen rates correspondingly low. This includes a useful plan and guide to the castle and grounds).

Once inside, explore all the castle’s nooks and crannies at your own pace. Our toddler certainly enjoyed doing so. Older children will also need appropriate supervision on the higher ramparts. It is well worth climbing the almost vertical stairway to the chequerboard floored roof. From here the views of the modern resort of Peñíscola, the harbour, the surrounding hills and the two beautiful beaches either side of the peninsula are absolutely stunning.

The castle also hosts temporary exhibitions on cultural or artistic themes. The more major of these have a supplementary entrance fee, but are not expensive.

Suggestions for lunch at Peñíscola

Leave the castle grounds. Turn right to return to the square with the church and the cafés. The café facing you offers great snacks, tapas, grills, salads at very reasonable prices. These go extremely well with an ice cool lager, or of course a chilled soft drink. Large umbrellas give plenty of shade from the midday heat. If you fancy being a real tourist it’s an ideal spot to while away an hour or so writing some postcards.

After lunch, a stroll back down through the cobbled streets is most enjoyable. Some of the tourist shops stay open during the afternoon, others re-open after siesta time. For the avid shopper a range of pottery, textiles, leather goods, clothes, jewellery and toys can be found. If this is all too demanding, head for one of the cafes specialising in ice-cream and offering a sea view.

Relaxing on the beach at Peñíscola

You may choose to return to your vehicle to collect your swimming costume, bucket and spade and head for one of the beaches to chill out for the rest of the afternoon. There are plenty of good value cafés on the sea front.